NEW Limited Edition SSR SpeedStar 71 T-Shirt

Celebrating SSR’s founding in 1971, the Vintage style SpeedStar artwork on symbolizes the original SSR culture.  Show your pride in authentic, quality wheels while keeping cool in this SSR SpeedStar 71 short-sleeved t-shirt. Available in sizes ranging from small to double extra-large. These t-shirts are a limited run so make sure to place your order before they are gone!



Why Autumn is also Turbo Season

The first day of Autumn has passed and gone. Here in Florida we still have beach weather and scorchingly beautiful heat lol. But for most of the country, Autumn is the foreshadowing of winter with temperatures starting to fall. Still it’s not too bad and by most standards it’s quite enjoyable (as one of my friends likes to put it, Shorts and Hoodie weather).

And with Autumn, comes Halloween, and Pumpkin Spice Lattes, and fall foliage, and most importantly Turbo Season. It’s during this part of the year that our forced induction brethren can strive. Cool temperatures means cold intake air, low engine temps, and ultimately more power. But what exactly comes into play for making this ideal Turbo weather?


So Turbochargers work by compressing incoming air and basically forcing as much air as possible into the intake chamber for combustion. By doing so you assume more air means more oxygen and therefore a stronger combustion for more power. So ideally you want as much oxygen as possibly. The same concept applies to Naturally Aspirated engines, but since a turbo compresses more air, the change is greater for them.

Now the Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) states that Pressure X Volume is equivalent to the number of Molecules X Ideal Gas Constant X Temperature. So for Turbocharged cars this means the following:

  • Pressure is basically your Boost
  • Volume is fixed as you only have a fixed volume in your combustion chamber
  • number of molecules in this case is Air/Oxygen, which should be maximized
  • Ideal Gas Constant stays constant
  • Temperature is well more or less intake temperature

At max boost, pressure and volume are constant. You can’t physically control the number of air/oxygen molecules, therefore temperature is the variable factor. In order to keep the equation equivalent, to increase oxygen molecules your temperature has to decrease. Therefore colder air has more densely packed air and oxygen molecules.

To summarize, cold air means more oxygen, and more oxygen means more power!


Honda Japan Parts



You may not know it, but we are still a large imported of Honda Japan products. If you ever need anything Japanese Domestic, be sure to make us your first stop!

Suspension Basics 101: Springs, Shocks, Coilovers, or Bags

Sweet ride brah, but it needs more low…

You’ve probably heard that one too many times. Now the question remains which route to take?

Springs ($200-$400):

Upgrading springs is the most cost effective way to properly lower your vehicle and get improved handling characteristics. Springs have had a bad rep for blowing your OEM shocks prematurely (lol), and there is some truth in that depending on the springs you purchase. Springs that lower 2 or more inches or who have spring rates extremely different from OEM specs fall in this category and should be used with caution (or in conjunction with appropriate shocks).

However, a few brands (Swift, H&R, Eibach, etc) take OEM specifications into account and design springs to work in conjunction with OEM shocks. These springs tend to have mild drops (around 1 inch) and tend to have spring rates near stock. These are great options if you want to lower your vehicle for improved performance without a need to upgrade much else.


Shocks ($300-$800):

Shocks typically are something we recommend with upgraded springs. On the lower end you typically get slight improvements in dampening to keep up with higher spring rates. You should also not really expect a drop with upgraded shocks (in most cases though there may be a minimal change in ride height).

On the higher end of shocks you can expect greatly improved dampening characteristics even adjustable dampening setting. These high-end shocks are so good that they provide better characteristics than many sub $1500 coilovers. So typically speaking, if you aren’t partial to a fixed ride height and don’t want to have a no worry suspension setup then shocks and springs may be the way to go.


Coilovers ($600+):

Lets start off with the largest coilover misconception: if you have coilovers you don’t necessary have to lower your vehicle. In most cases, coilovers can actually be set to OEM ride height. So what’s the point? For lower end coilovers, ride height seems to be the desire. In this day and age you can purchase a set of sub $800 coilovers to simply adjust how low you are. Coilovers for lowering sake somewhat defeat their true purpose, but to each his own.

A decent set of street and track coilovers will set you back about $1500. These typically have ride height adjustment separate from dampening. And if used with proper setting will provide greatly improved suspension performance and also give the vehicle a nice adjustable drop. From there on you have track coilovers that can run up thousands of dollars.


Air Suspension ($2000+):

Air suspension or bags has by far the highest starting price, and for good reason. Bags are just that, bags that are filled with compressed air and serve as the vehicles spring. Generally an air suspension setup comes with compressors and a tank, which allows you to freely change the pressure within those bags to adjust for height or performance needs. If you have the money this is the best setup for lowering your vehicle, as you are able to sit your car on the ground when parked and easily raise it when you need to drive.

This will also provide the most comfortable ride, you’re driving on air. And though not commonly practiced due to all the weight, you can somewhat setup your air suspension for a performance setup for improved handling and performance.


Tire Basics 101: Selecting Rubbers

For most people, the biggest improvement in performance can be achieved through a simple tire change. That being said here are a few tire basics for our scene.

OEM wheels with wider tires:

If this is the route you’re taking, you are somewhat limited in tire selection. Depending on the width of the wheel, you have a range of tire widths to choose from. The minimum would be the lowest width before you start stretching tire (more about this later). If possible we always recommend the maximum or as close to that in order to maximize tire patch and thus grip.

While that seems simple enough you have to take note of the changes you are making. Where in an ideal world you should be able to change the tire width and maintain the same sidewall, changes in width also affect the sidewall. This means a 55mm sidewall on a 195mm wide tire is not the same as a 55mm on a 205mm tire. If you don’t want to throw off your speedometer then you have to do some further calculations. Luckily there’s an app website for that:


Aftermarket wheels, larger but similar to OEM:

Lets start off with a basic setup with basic fitment. Meaning conservative drop and wheel specs allowing a proper square tire. Use the same method as above, but when using the tire size calculator make sure to account for the change in wheel diameter. This change will affect the tire size sidewall and width you’ll need as to not throw off your speedometer.

As long as your drop and wheel specs are conservative you should be able to fit meaty wide tires without much issue.


Aftermarket wheels, aggressive fitment:

Depending on the kind of wheel fitment you choose you have a few options. If you plan on running a conservative drop you can usually get away with running a minimally wide tire size. If you want to run wider width tires with an aggressive drop then chances are you’ll have to adjust camber (preferably only about 3 degrees), roll/pull fenders, and possibly adjust coilovers setting. These are again case-by-case, and vary from car to car. If this is the gray area you want to be in we will have more articles/you can give us a call for help!


Super Saiyin Stance, Make-it-fit wheels:

If this is the route you are taking then chances are that all convention and rules will be thrown out. While not recommended, you will probably be selecting tire widths bellow the minimum, this will stretch out the tire to slope the sidewall and give more clearance. Camber will be a game you play like a master and stiff coilovers or air will be your life. In cases like this theory is not enough, and fitment usually ends up being a trial and error process. Good Luck.